Electrical guide from iLikeTo Fix

Electrical problems and what to do first

Tripping breakers, dead outlets, old panels, aluminum wiring and upgrades. Find the symptom you are seeing, run the safe checks first, and know when it is a job for a licensed electrician.

42 electrical problems, each named by the symptom you see

Sorted by the decade your house was built

Checks to run yourself and what fair repair costs look like

Find your problem Checks to run first

42 problemsEvery electrical problem we cover, on this page

4 house erasPre-1940, 1940–80, 1980–2000 and since 2000

Checks firstWhat to rule out before anyone comes out

Fair costsWhat the work costs, and what not to pay for

1Find your problem

Start with the decade your house was built. The same symptom has different causes in a 1930s house and a 2010s one, so each era lists the electrical problems that concentrate there.

Before about 1940 1940 to 1980 1980 to 2000 Since 2000 Any age

Homes built before about 1940

Galvanized supply, cast iron drains, cloth-wrapped wiring, ungrounded circuits.

All electrical in homes built before about 1940

Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel Two-prong outlets throughout the house Cloth-covered cable visible in the attic or basement Fuse panel, or a 60 amp service Fuse larger than the wire it protects Ceiling fan mounted to a standard light box Knob-and-tube still energised No GFCI protection anywhere in the house Breakers or fuses that are not labeled

Homes built roughly 1940 to 1980

Copper supply, aging cast iron stacks, 60 to 100 amp panels, first-generation central air.

All electrical in homes built 1940 to 1980

Aluminum branch wiring Panel full, with tandem breakers doubled up Outlets that no longer grip a plug Three-prong outlets on two-wire cable 100 amp service and a growing load Bathroom outlet with no GFCI Lights dimming when the air conditioner starts Extension cords doing permanent work Old smoke alarms with no interconnection

Homes built roughly 1980 to 2000

Polybutylene and aluminum wiring, 150 amp panels, R-22 systems.

All electrical in homes built 1980 to 2000

Backstabbed receptacles failing 150 amp panel and a modern load Recessed cans buried in attic insulation No arc-fault protection on bedroom circuits Kitchen tripping when two appliances run Hardwired smoke alarms all beeping at once Pool, spa or hot tub with questionable bonding Aluminum still present at the range or dryer Outdoor outlet with a flat cover

Homes built since 2000

PEX on slab, 200 amp service, builder-grade equipment failing street by street.

All electrical in homes built since 2000

AFCI breaker tripping repeatedly Adding an EV charger Smart switch needing a neutral in the box No whole-home surge protection Builder-grade devices failing across the house Generator connection with no interlock Recessed LED retrofit dimming poorly Spa or outbuilding added after the build Panel has no spare spaces on a new house

Any age of home

Problems that turn up whatever the decade.

Frequent outages from trees on the lines Humidity in an outdoor panel or meter base Lightning surge damage to electronics Storm shelter power and lighting Long service drop or a rural feeder Well pump circuit

2Checks to run first

Work through these in order before you book anyone. They cost little or nothing and often find the answer.

Find the tripped breakerPush it fully off, then back on. Reset once. If it trips again, unplug things on that circuit and stop there.
Test and reset GFCI outletsOne GFCI often protects several outlets downstream, including ones in other rooms. Press reset on every GFCI before assuming an outlet is dead.
Map and label the panelKnow which breaker feeds which rooms. It speeds up every repair and is a five-minute job with a helper.
Note the panel brand and sizeThe label inside the door gives the make and the amp rating. Both matter for what comes next.

3What electrical work costs

The short answerAccess drives the number more than materials do. Every problem page gives a range for judging a quote, and the cost guide lists the electrical work you should not be paying for at all.

Read Electrical cost: what to expect and what to skip before you compare quotes. A quote that cannot explain what it includes, or that fixes the visible symptom while leaving the cause behind, is the one to question.

4When to call an electrician

Read the page for your problem first. It says whether this is a job for a pro, and what a fair price looks like before you make the call.

Speak to a local electrician

Calls connect to an independent local contractor. How this works.

5Questions

Why does my breaker keep tripping?

Too much load on one circuit, a fault in a device or cord, or a failing breaker. If it trips with nothing plugged in, the fault is in the wiring and needs an electrician.

Is old wiring dangerous?

Not automatically. Knob-and-tube, cloth-covered cable and aluminum branch wiring each have specific risks, mostly at connections and where insulation has been disturbed. An inspection tells you which applies.

Do I need a panel upgrade?

Only if the load calls for it or the panel is a known problem brand. Adding an EV charger, heat pump or induction range is the usual trigger; age alone is not.

Which electrical work can I do myself?

Resetting breakers and GFCIs, swapping a like-for-like light fixture or switch with the power off. Panel work, new circuits and anything involving aluminum wiring should go to a licensed electrician.

Written by Jaylan Jones. iLikeTo Fix earns a referral fee when a call connects to a contractor. See our business-model disclosure.

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